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The eateries that keep popping up along Smith Street got their first area bar when Boat finally arrived on the scene. Keeping in mind the neighborhood's influx of thirty- to fortysomething East Village refugees, the owners have managed to give the place a grungy feel but without actual grime. The ample tables and chairs are all thrift-store specials, but they're also all clean; the beer selection is extensive, but you can still get your favorite low-end brands; and the jukebox is terrific, though it doesn't have anything too new or progressive. Thanks to Boat's pleasant staff and working fireplace, the neighborhood's aging bohos, as well as the hipster newcomers, seem quite pleased that it dropped anchor where it did. — Charles Runnette