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At first glance, this place looks like a gem: Peek in the warmly lit glass storefront on this dark street in a shabby neighborhood and you'll likely see a roomful of posh-looking diners. (Isn't that the definition of a "find"?) But the same attributes that make brown so attractive seem to get in the way of its success. That cozy interior is overheated by its overflow of well-dressed clientele engrossed in well-read conversation; those glazed vertical tree stumps in place of chairs might be innovative but they're neither stable nor comfortable. The dinner menu—organic comfort food that changes daily and arrives on wood boards in case you didn't clue in to the rusticity—is equally uneven: Braised fennel with roasted chicken may be tasty but tinny smelling bass seems an affront to the market-driven claims. — Alexandra Vallis

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