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Few businesspeople can get away with three-martini lunches these days. The machismo of high-end red-meat consumption and glittery seafood gluttony, however, are still culturally acceptable. Tribeca’s City Hall provides the perfect stage for that kind of corporate fantasy. The walls’ black-and-white photos portray turn-of-the-century Manhattan street scenes, but the room’s pristine checkerboard floors, lofty ceilings, and clustered round booths evoke a more glamorous, cleaned-up New York romance. Briny bivalves, giant shrimp, and chilled lobster can be ordered á la carte or riding atop “high rise seafood towers” with tartar sauce and horseradish-spiked cocktail sauce. You can choose from six different cuts of dry-aged corn-fed Nebraska beef, including a thick-cut prime rib for two or a pillowy filet mignon. The few concessions to the new millennium seem out of place, like the salty coriander-spiced blackened tuna served with a puzzling pile of flat-leaf parsley. Just stick to the great surf and turf steakhouse classics, and expect to pay Wall Street prices. — Ganda Suthivarakom

City Hall has two private dining rooms: the Rose Room seats 32, and the Granite Room seats up to 110.

Delivery
City Hall does not deliver raw shellfish.

Weddings
Between the Rose and Granite Rooms, City Hall Restaurant can accommodate anywhere from 32 to 220 guests. The Granite Room’s dark-walnut-and-brick bar and (of course) granite ceilings create a vibe of old-world elegance (starting at $4,000), while the Rose Room’s warmly colored walls offer a romantic and intimate atmosphere (starting at $2000).

"Chrysler high-rise" of shellfish, $65; 21-day dry-aged prime rib on the bone for two, $72; curried onion rings, $8.

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