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Bayou offers a taste of New Orleans via Harlem, with food that's carefully, faithfully (and, occasionally, inventively) prepared, from fragrant, dense gumbo to plump oysters fried in cornmeal and served with spinach and brie. Entrées include delicately fried catfish and perfectly sautéed red snapper with pecans. Oh, and the desserts: a sweet-tart frozen lemon pie, rich pecan brownie, and bourbon-spiked bread pudding are three we had fun with. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Cornmeal-fried oysters, $10.95; shrimp-and-okra gumbo, $4.95/$5.95; fried catfish, $15.95; steak au poivre, $20.95; crawfish etouffée, $15.95; frozen lemon pie, $5.50; bread pudding, $5.50

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