Chef Josh DeChellis and some of BarFry's cuisine (background).   (Photo: Patrick MCMullan (DeChellis), Jeremy Liebman (food))

BarFry
50 Carmine St., nr. Bedford St.; 212-929-5050.
Returning from a cooking stint in Japan, the talented Josh DeChellis resolved to fill New York’s tempura void. And succeeded.

Centro Vinoteca
74 Seventh Ave. S., nr. Barrow St.; 212-367-7470.
Longtime Batali protégé Anne Burrell finally gets a chance to show her stuff in this Village Italian spot.

Degustation Wine & Tasting Bar
239 E. 5th St., nr. Second Ave.; 212-979-1012.
Wesley Genovart has been filling this nineteen-seat house with food-world aficionados since it opened in 2006.

Kefi
222 W. 79th St., nr. Broadway; 212-873-0200.
Chef Michael Psilakis has put his haute-Greek talents into a family-style neighborhood eatery.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar
207 Second Ave., at 13th St.; 212-254-3500.
Like Mario Batali before him, David Chang is a card-carrying member of the “Refined Meathead” school of cooking.